Friday, March 27, 2015

Santorini: 1986

There is a man who texted his way back into my life a few weeks ago.  To get context you have to flash back to 1986.  I was 20.  I'd been to Greece the summer before (1985) on a student-exchange program and met Tasos.    Tasos and I were inseparable that first summer from the day we met.  At the end of the summer I had to go home.  I went back to school, attending a local community college.   At the time I thought it perfectly normal and nothing special for me to buy a one-way ticket the next summer to go back to Greece to go be with a man 13 years my senior in the name of love.   My family flipped out and with good reason, looking back.   I left home in Early July.  Tasos and I traveled around for the summer, camped on beaches, explored the monasteries in Meteora.  Tasos knew exactly how to play me and did it very well.  I think at that age it's easier to just give in to your emotions and let them lead you wherever they may.  Tasos was all Greek, dark, charismatic, sexy, and my first big love.

September came and he had to go back to work teaching music. I didn't have a job and had invited a girlfriend from high school to come to Greece and go travelling. Over her 6-weeks in country she and I explored Greece a bit.   We ended up on Santorini, an island in the Mediterranean.  One evening we were sitting in a little taverna watching the sun go down over the core of the volcano (Gorgeous!).  We were playing, "Guess that nationality" where we'd try to figure out where the patrons of the bar were from.

A very blond man walked in.   My girlfriend immediately thought he was German.  I knew he was American.  I was right.  He had that friendly smile that only Americans who LOVE to travel have.  That smile says, "Hi!  I'm open to whatever experiences I find while traveling".  That was Mitch, to a T.  He soaked his travel up with every fiber of his being - just like I did.  While we go for the destination we know the trip there and back is really the best part.  That's the meat of it and where the magic happens.

So that evening in the Taverna I smiled at him and he promptly came over to our table to say hello.   I, speaking Greek, responded and asked him how his day was.  He was trying valiantly to communicate while we were pretending we didn't speak English.   Just a few minutes in my girlfriend and I started laughing and speaking English. We all became friends, including another guy showing up the next day.  His name was Mitch and we shared crazy chemistry but I was involved with my Greek lover so our chemistry was of no consequence.  We all spend the better part of the week together, hanging out at a nude beach, exploring the island, laughing, etc.   My girlfriend focused on sun worship and the other guy was trying hard to get laid - by anybody.  This left Mitch and I to share time on the beach in long talks.   After the end of the week my girlfriend and I went back to Tasos'; house.  That other guy - I'm not sure where he ended up.  Mitch went on to Egypt to see the pyramids and finish his "Bang Your Head World Tour".

Here we are, hanging out in Thira on the Island of Santorini.  We're both 29 years older now, hopefully wiser, definitely grayer, and that chemistry - it's still off the charts.


A half a year later I'm back home in America after Tasos punched me (on the chin with his fist).  We had a really stupid fight, and No, I didn't deserve it.  It's a long story not right for this blog.  I left a month later after selling my camera to buy a ticket home.  I didn't tell my parents why I was home until I was 46 (yes - 26 years later).  I digress.

Back to the story: about a year after my escape, Mitch and I planned a Santorini reunion.  We met in Chicago for a long weekend. The other two didn't join us. Mitch got a great room and unbeknownst to me at the time had hopes for romance.   I didn't let the energy we shared amount to anything.  I didn't have the words to say some things that I needed to say before getting intimate and because I didn't (couldn't) tell I wouldn't let Mitch touch me and just shut down.  I hurt his feelings.  Mitch never understood why I didn't act on the obvious chemistry that was so thick you could cut it with a knife.  Years later I found Mitch's phone number and spoke with him once about 7 years ago for a few minutes.  We promised to keep in contact but didn't.  I left a few messages over the years and got no responses.  Last October I found him on Facebook and was thrilled when he accepted my friend request that same day.   We have had no other contact though until he clicked Send with a Happy Birthday text a few weeks ago.   And that his how Mitch came back into my life.

Chemistry between us is still very much present, proven by a ridiculous number of text messages and emails and hours on the phone.  We've always had horrible timing for romance and still do.  I am very happy to have Mitch back in my life, even if I can't feel his breath on the back of my neck...

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Bonaire, Snorkel day

No more scuba for us for safety reasons as leaving the island tomorrow.  Instead of diving we went snorkeling with our cameras and stopped at the Salt Pier because we were told by the cute Kite City food truck boys that turtles like to hang out there in the sand flats to the north of the pier.  We were not disappointed! Saw 2 or possibly 3 turtles, all swimming quickly away as soon as we spotted them.  Mary was shooting her fish eye lens which turned out to be a very good choice.  She got some nice Action Chick photos of me freediving around the pier.

Mr Turtle.  Photo by Mary.

Yours truly freediving at the Salt Pier.  Photo by Mary.

Yours truly freediving at the Salt Pier.  Photo by Mary.

Yours truly freediving at the Salt Pier.  Photo by Mary.


 Then we headed south to Tori’s Reef (I think?) because the book said it was good snorkeling. It was just OK… Cool to swim with huge schools of tiny fishes in the canal but the rest of the site was really hammered and rather boring. 

A Scuba selfie of Mary and I.

Fantastic Trip!!


Friday, May 16, 2014

Bonaire: Dive 17 – The Lake, Dive 18 – Pink Beach, Dive 19 – Captain Don’s Habitat, Via Buddy Dive, Dive 20 – Bonaire Oceanfront Apartments House Reef – Night/Flouro

Dive 17 – The Lake 
90 ft/49 minutes


NICE double reef.  Fairly easy entry… Worth doing again.  Spent quite a bit of time out on the second reef because the coral was in such good shape and really fishy. 

Dive 18 – Pink Beach
116 ft/52 minutes
Surface Interval :28 Minutes

General fun in harassing a large (the biggest yet) lionfish that was out in the sand channel between the reef steps – see the photos.


That HUGE Lionfish, large enough that Mary was essentually hiding behind it in this photo.  Notice her yellow fin.  

Mary and I took turns taking photos as the beast turned it's fins from her to me.  That is their defense mechanism - if you get too close to a Lionfish you end up looking at their butts.  

Mary, Photobombing the Lionfish.  

Dive 19 – Captain Don’s Habitat, Via Buddy Dive
98 ft/48 minutes
Surface Interval 3:03

It was ok.  We swam over from Buddy Dive.  The wall wasn't entirely vertical – more of a slope.  Saw a Black Durgeon, lots of file fish, and a lot of eels, etc…

French Angels in a wreck at Capt Don's.

Another eel...

Maryphotobombing another eel.

Yet another eel.

Dive 20 – Bonaire Oceanfront Apartments House Reef – Night/Flouro

73 ft/59 minutes

Last dive of the trip.  It started out lame.  I only had video lights so had to stay with Mary.  Half way through it was starting to feel like a bust but then we started seeing eels everywhere.  Sharp-tail eels in a pile and lots of spotted eels out hunting culminating in a large spotted coming out into the open, being aggressive to my camera, then swimming into a crevice in the mooring and snatching a male sergeant major for dinner.  How cool to watch the eel eat – if a bit creepy.



Mary photographing those little eels.

You can see a silver Tarpon cruising behind the eels.

A closer view.

This guy was about 4 feet long and is the subject of the video below.  
Listen carefully and you can hear Mary laugh.










Thursday, May 15, 2014

Bonaire: Dive 14 – Hilma Hooker, Dive 15 - “Honey Hole”, Dive 16 – The Cliff

Dive 14 – Hilma Hooker
98 ft/34 minutes
Surface Interval: 1:07

Long-ass swim to the Hooker.  Lots of life around the wreck, a school of at least 8 tarpon inside, and a spotted eagle ray feeding in the sand channel just beyond the wreck. 


A drawing of the Hilma Hooker, courtesy of Mares.com

From numa.net:
She sailed under five aliases, carried an illegal cargo and was wanted by the FBI. Built and christened the Midsland in Holland in 1951, she visited a host of foreign ports while changing owners frequently over 30 years. She also sailed at the Mistrial, William Express, Ana, Doric Express and, finally, the Hilma Hooker. Her last port of registry was San Andres, Columbia, South America.  The 236-foot freighter was heading north from San Andres in 1983 when it experienced steerage problems near Bonaire. The captain maneuvered his ship to the island and tied up at the Town Pier, but failed to navigate through customs. He had no papers to declare the vessel’s port of departure or designated port of entry. Local authorities red-flagged it, then ran it through Interpol (International Criminal Police Organization) as a prime suspect for drug trafficking. Both Interpol and the FBI had been tracking the vessel for months, the latter dubbing it “a designated drugger.”  Sure enough, a fine-tooth comb search uncovered 25,000 pounds of marijuana stowed in bales behind a false bulkhead. Bonaire’s customs agents had themselves a sting and shipwreck aficionados had a new dive site.   In 1984, after dive operators and volunteers diligently prepped her for sinking, the Hilma Hooker was put down off the southeast cost of the island. She came to rest on her starboard side in 60 to 95 feet of water and is heralded today as one of Bonaire’s premier dive sites.


Dive 15 – “Honey Hole”
106 ft/46 minutes
Surface Interval:  6:10

Unnamed dive site we named “Honey Hole” just south of Invisibles.  The entry was next to a small-ish (think 2’ square) concrete block next to the road.  Easy sand entry with a long-ass swim to the wall.  At depth was a sand channel with an “Island” of coral that was 105’ at the sand and rose to 65’.  VERY cool.   3 Lionfish in a small area, lots of fishes, holes, etc.   Crossing back over the sand channel (populated with Garden Eels) we found a MASSIVE Green Moray – at least 5-feet long and very girthy.  Also saw a large spiny lobster in a large cavity behind a coral head. 

We thought we had discovered a new kick butt dive site but later on I found it in the book, listed as “The Rock” (rather than the normal yellow painted rock, there was a rock stack on the shoulder of the road marking the site). 

Mr. Green Moray


Dive 16 - The Cliff
113 ft/40 minutes
Dusk dive.  We entered down a cobbly beach into uneven substrate difficult to maneuver with the surge.  Decent dive, but nothing super special.


Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Bonaire Dive 13 - Bachelor's Beach.

90 ft/51 minutes


We went back to show Mary it really was a nice reef after all.  Our first time here she was in caffeine withdrawal and had a wicked headache making her just a wee bit less than stellar.  

No special photos to share though. 

Bonaire Dive 12 – Yellow Submarine

92 ft/42 minutes
Surface Interval: 1:55

This is at the north end of Kralendyke.  Decent entry with a nice wall.  It was like swimming in a fishbowl with so many fishes. We saw 5 – FIVE juvenile spotted drum in the same little nook.  VERY COOL.

Mary, excitedly telling me she sees 5, count em - FIVE, juvenile spotted drum.


Look close.  You can see the little beasts in the lower right of this photo.

This is a juvenile spotted drum.  
The entire fish, including that long top fin is maybe 1 to 3 inches tall.   
The adult looks very different from the juvenile.  Mary took this photo.  



 Mary took this photo.  

 Mary took this photo.  

Bonaire: Dive 11 – Buddy Dive – House Reef

May 14, 2014, Bonaire:  Dive 11 – Buddy Dive – House Reef


130 ft/38 minutes –consumed 1,900 PSI
Surface Interval: 45 minutes

Went back with the cameras to try and film the Garden Eels.  Unfortunately they weren't cooperative.  Buddy has a coral nursery program, photos below.  They attach coral fragments to the floating trees so the corals can grow.  Later they'll reattach them where needed.

Mary, behind the "coral tree", always taking photos.

Yours truly, hanging out in front of the coral trees.